Tuesday June 12th, New Islington Marina - Rose of Lancaster Public House, Chadderton

Phew! We made it! 7 hours cruising including a 20 minutes stop for prop clearing. 7 miles, 18 locks and 1 lift bridge later we’re preparing ourselves for a pub meal out tonight!

To our surprise, this morning dawned with blue sky and sunshine. This is the first such morning since way back on the Rufford Arm. Very nice indeed.

We set off just after 8.10 in order to get to Lock 81 and the appointed rendezvous with British Waterways. We winded and turned into the main canal about 200 yards in front of two other boats heading our way – at least we won’t be the only ones!

Leaving Lock 81

At Lock 81 (Butter Lane Lock) we pulled in to the side and immediately a BW chap wandered down the towpath and checked us all in. He gave us specific instructions about a shallow section through Newton Heath, told us the padlocks had been removed from the locks and then said farewell. That was the last we saw of BW for the rest of the day!

The two boats behind us had moored together at Piccadilly Basin (the new posh name for what was Dale Street Basin) and apparently had an awful night of it. One of them was a single handed boat, and they had more or less assumed they would be travelling together meaning we would be on our own. Not what we had hoped for, but hey ho.

Trvelling crane & chimney, Victoria Mill

We made good progress, initially through a residential area full of mothers taking young children to a nursery, before we reached the magnificent Victoria Mill with its two blocks linked by a travelling crane and tall chimney.

Locks came thick and fast, fortunately relatively easy to work. This was fortunate for Elaine as she was working them – she doesn’t like steering into broad locks going uphill on her own, so she works the locks. I get my turn when we go downhill.

Concrete topping for Anthony's Lock

Lock 77, Anthony’s Lock, was immense as the sides have been raised to combat mining subsidence. It now has a rise of 15’ 1½” making it apparently the fourth deepest lock on the UK canal system.

The canal chops and changes between residential and industrial, but neither ever overpowers the canal which is well fringed with trees and greenery making it at times quite attractive.

We passed the boats booked on the downhill run into Manchester below Lock 71 (Shaw’s Lock), which had a conveniently placed newsagent so Elaine could nip and buy a paper while I was on the boat in the filling lock.

Lock 70 (Madhouse Lock – yes, honestly!) heralded the start of the aforementioned shallow section – and it was shallow as well. This was probably the scruffiest section of the whole journey with a lot of rubbish in the water – mainly plastic bottles, beer cans, aerosols, fast food containers, bits of polystyrene and umpteen plastic bags. But, it didn’t seem to hold us up too much. Part of the offside has been sectioned off to provide a habitat for some small weed or something, and much of the former concrete capping still remains.

Manchester City Council in their infinite wisdom decided to fill the canal channel with concrete to make a “water feature” making the locks into “cascades”. I think this was done in the 1970’s when canal restoration (although not on the Rochdale at that time) was in full swing. Talk about short sightedness! Inevitably the “water feature” became a linear rubbish dump – the only difference to a derelict water filled canal full of rubbish is that the rubbish stayed in sight on top of the concrete!

Much of the restoration funding went on removing this aberration, but unfortunately there wasn’t enough to complete the job!

The locks were by now, thankfully, thinning out as we passed through Failsworth. Here was one of the major restoration problems with a Co-Op supermarket and car park having been built on the line of the canal which had been obliterated from view. A new shopping centre and canal channel had to be built and now looks most attractive.

Locking bar, Failsworth Top Lock

Lock 65 (Failsworth Top Lock) hove into view and this marked the end of the “BW escorted passage” section. Not a sign of any BW employee was seen as we locked up, and left it behind. The lock is notable for the locking bar that BW use to immobilise the balance beams after they presumably assume all boats have passed through. Under way again, Elaine enjoyed her first ride of the day as the next lock is some distance away. She had probably walked 4 miles today and in the process worked 17 locks! Bless her!!

A short green section follows, free of houses and industry and here it was that we had our only major problem of the day. As we passed under a lovely stone built accommodation bridge came an almighty CLUNK! Our progress ground to a slow crawl and the prop rattled like mad.

M60 crossing

We managed to pull in to the side and while Elaine held the boat in with the middle rope, I delved down the weed hatch. Among the many bits of chewed up plastic bags was a man’s anorak wound tightly round the prop and having to be snipped free with the cutters.

Continuing on our way we soon came to the M60 crossing where after a long struggle a planning inspector ruled in favour of the canal’s restoration and forced the Ministry of Transport to provide a navigable culvert for the as yet unrestored canal to pass through. A long section of concrete channel and a sharp right hand bend precedes the long box culvert section followed by a sharp left hand turn to regain the original line.

Grimshaw Lane Lift Bridge

We were on the last lap now. Grimshaw Lane Bridge had been lowered so it crossed the canal at more or less ankle height. To replace it, an unusual lift bridge was built. Instead of the heavy duty lift bridges seen elsewhere, it rises in one section on 4 hydraulic rams so the boat can pass under. It is quite spectacular and holds the traffic up wonderfully on what is a busy road!

Mooring at the Rose of Lancaster pub

Just one more lock to do, and as it came straight after the lift bridge, I carried on and worked it, being very gentle with Elaine on the boat as I raised the paddle. Just a mile to go and after passing through a short and well wooded cutting we rounded a sharp bend to find our journey’s end. The Rose of Lancaster Public House is the first recognised mooring for those, like us, travelling out of Manchester and we saw no reason to pass up on the chance of a good meal to recover.

It has been a long, long day by our standards; 25 lock miles in 7 and a half hours. Not bad going considering there were 18 deep broad locks to negotiate. Elaine has worked her socks off and deserves a glass of wine tonight…. or two….. or three…..

Monday Jun 11th, Castlefield Basins, Manchester - New Islington Marina, Ancoats

Mooring at Castlefield Basin

Apart from a short trip last Thursday to empty the loos, we haven’t budged since we got to Castlefield Basin 8 days ago.

Last Thursday also was Elaine’s birthday. Don’t let it ever be said I don’t spoil Elaine for her birthday. Two years ago we were getting seriously stuck up the Wednesbury Old Canal in deepest West Bromwich. Last year it was Walsall and this year it was the sanitary station at Castlefield in Manchester.

Seriously, we also went at her request to see the Lowry Centre at Salford Quays where we saw the wonderful collection of Lowry’s as well as a great exhibition devoted to all things Annie Lennox, followed by lunch at Pizza Express. Definitely an improvement on the Black Country.

We have also walked miles, shopped to our heart’s content, visited Old Trafford (wonderful), seen the fantastic Gothic Revival of the John Rylands Library, visited a family ancestor’s grave at the incredible Weaste Cemetery at Salford, collected the post including my new toy – a Kindle Touch 3G with which I am very pleased and thoroughly pigged ourselves in the restaurants of the city.

Having said that, it’s good to be moving again (and climbing – about 75 feet today). We set off about 8.15 and made our way to the sanitary station again to ensure empty loos and a full water tank before winding and heading to the mooring below Duke’s Lock, lock 92 from Sowerby Bridge in Yorkshire where we are heading over the next few days. That’s 92 big broad locks in 32 miles, including today, the infamous Rochdale 9.

Duke's Lock 92

We waited below the lock for some time to see if there was any hope of another boat appearing with whom we could share the work. Sadly, all the moving boats we saw headed in the opposite direction. So we girded our loins and entered Duke’s Lock on our own.

The Rochdale 9 is the only part of the Rochdale Canal that remained open, even though the Canal Company (the canal wasn’t taken over by the state on nationalisation in 1948) wanted to close them down to navigation in the 1960’s. A concerted public campaign saw them remain open (just) until the restoration and reopening of the Ashton & Lower Peak Forest Canals saw the vital link of this single mile of canal with its 9 locks become an integral part of the newly named Cheshire Ring in the early 1970’s.

It remained notorious though and you even had to pay a fee of about £32 to the Canal Company for the privilege of negotiating arguably the worst flight of locks in the country. Not only did you have to contend with almost derelict (but still very heavy gates) and fearsome paddle gear, incredible amounts of rubbish (baulks of timber being particularly prevalent), but cascades of water pouring over the top gates ready to at best drown the unwary crew member or at worst flood the boat.

The Canal Company sold the whole of the canal to The Waterways Trust in 2000 to enable the restoration to be completed, and the canal reopened throughout in 2003. With British Waterways now in control the 9 have been improved. Gates have been replaced and are easier to shift, paddles are largely much easier (but see below) rubbish is now almost non-existent but if you are unfortunate you still can meet cascades of water.

So that is what awaited us today. Elaine didn’t like these locks at all when we came down them in 2005, and wasn’t looking forward to doing them again. As a result (and knowing the heavy gates and paddle gear), we reversed our usual operating procedure of Elaine working the uphill locks and me steering for Elaine steering and me working the locks.

Progress was slow but steady. All but one of the locks were full and had to be emptied before we could enter and thus taking more time. However, you can’t fail to be entranced by the wonderful cityscape that literally surrounds you – towering over you. The canal almost seems overwhelmed by the high rise buildings (old and new) and feels insignificant.

Former Tunnel

The first section is through an opened out tunnel until you pass through the more modern tunnel that takes you under Deansgate and railway tracks. A curious mousehole opening on the left just before the tunnel is the remains of a tunnel cut at a lower level from the end of the Castlefield Basin Arm, through the former Grocer’s Warehouse (where goods were lifted to and from boats by a water wheel driven by the subterranean River Medlock) to a long lost unloading point.

Tib Lock

Former railway goods yard arches have been transformed into a two tier collection of nightclubs and bars before some new development brings some respite to the closed in atmosphere around Tib Lock. Who or what Tib was I have no idea. Just beyond is an arm leading to a small basin. This is all that remains of the former Manchester & Salford Junction Canal that once led to the River Irwell and gave access to the Manchester, Bolton & Bury Canal on the other side of the river – itself under restoration now. Sadly the basin ends against the brick wall of the Bridgewater Hall, home of the Hallé Orchestra,

Entrance to former Manchester & Salford Junction Canal

Oxford Street Lock is dwarfed by the huge 9 storey office block that spans and surrounds the lock. And then we reach Canal Street – home of Manchester’s apparently thriving Gay Quarter. At the next lock – Princess Street Lock the towpath disappears completely. Canal Street itself became the towpath, and access to the next lock – Chorlton Street Lock – was by climbing over a wall and negotiating two large steps down. Since someone leant too far out over the wall, fell in the canal and drowned the City Council have now built a steel & Perspex addition to the wall that makes it impossible to get to the lock by any way other than by boat. All this under the chattering extroverts that frequent this area!

Looking back to Princess St Lock, Canal Street on right

It was at Chorlton Street Lock that I almost met my Waterloo. The top paddle was a right bugger. It was exceedingly stiff and I had to keep taking the windlass off the spindle to replace so as to get better pressure as it was impossible to turn completely through 360°. Having finally vanquished and collapsing onto the balance beam for a swift 40 winks, I was greeted by cheers and applause from the onlookers from above (as well as Elaine, bless her!).

Piccadilly Tunnel & Lock

The final two locks of the 9 take us underground. The Rochdale Canal Company wasn’t too concerned about selling off parts of the canal line to make money and when someone wanted to build a monstrosity of a 1960’s tower office block above Piccadilly Lock, they weren’t too concerned if it made it difficult for boaters. So the lock is now situated in the Stygian gloom of a cave which the arc lights hardly penetrate.

This cavern at one time had a reputation for unseemly behaviour in the past – it was the haunt of local prostitutes, and being close to Canal Street, other “things”. However, the former open area have now been blocked off, lighting installed and CCTV is highly visible.

Ironically, one of two prominent notices from Manchester's finest – the Police Force - warning of “lewd and obscene behaviour” has now been joined by a graffiti painting of two policemen in a tight clinch and enjoying what can only be described as a passionate kiss!

Finally we emerged into the light and through the top lock of the 9. Bloodied but definitely not unbowed. It was hard work, particularly a couple of the top paddles, but the gates were easier than I remember them, and we must have picked a good day as only 2 or 3 locks had water flowing over the top gates and they weren’t as bad as they could have been.

We then passed Dale Street Basin – a basin no more since the Canal Company filled it in in the 1960’s and made it into a car park (although there is a surviving warehouse) – and the junction with the Ashton Canal (which we will be cruising on our return from Sowerby Bridge (175 locks in 63 miles for heaven’s sake) and headed for the first two locks that featured in the restoration – Brownsfield Lock and Ancoats Lock. With their more modern paddle gear these were thankfully easier to operate and we were soon cruising into New Islington Marina and our overnight stop.

Mooring in New Islington Basin

The next long section to beyond Failsworth is one where you have to book with British Waterways and be escorted by them – rather like the Liverpool Link, although not for the same reasons. The BW gang are now met below Lock 81, hence our mooring at New Islington Marina where we are more or less on the spot ready for the morning.

However, BW doesn’t make it easy for you to understand the arrangements. The waterway guides as well as BW’s own website Waterscape with its supposedly highly detailed Boaters’ Guides advise you that you are met at Dale Street Basin, below Lock 83. However Waterscape’s Stoppage site tells you to meet the gang at Lock 81. Confused? You will be even more in a moment.

All the notices refer to boaters being escorted up 18 locks out of Manchester up to and including Lock 65. Everything refers to the Manchester 18.

However, if you met BW at Lock 83 (as you used to) that would be 19 locks counting inclusively as you have to work locks 83 and 65. Now that you meet them at lock 81 that’s 17 locks.

Yet they still call it the Manchester 18……

That’s BW  for you!

Sunday June 3rd - Pennington Flash Country Park near Leigh - Castefield Basins, Manchester

What a p*ss awful day for cruising. But Hey; someone’s got to!

Actually we didn’t need to, as we don’t really need to be in Manchester until tomorrow, as we’re meeting up with Kathryn, Bob & Freddie in Heaton Park on Tuesday.

But, being half-term and the Jubilee weekend, we thought we ought to get there sooner rather than later, and so set off this morning in heavy drizzle, under lowering skies and in a cold, cold wind.

Most of the journey I’ll gloss over, as it was a case of gritting your teeth and getting on with it rather than taking in the scenic delights of your surroundings and thinking up bits and pieces for the blog.

Leigh passed in a blur – not because we were going too fast – more because my glasses were covered in rain spots that were being inexpertly wiped as my hanky was by now rather damp. In good weather the Leigh branches (both BW’s and the Bridgewater’s) are bearable scenery wise as you think back to the ravages the hundreds of years of coal mining had wrought, but on a wet cold June morning as only Lancashire could provide, nothing was going to make it attractive.

We eventually reached Worsley and a slight sense of relief as the wide open spaces of the landscape was to be replaced by bricks & mortar. I never thought I would be glad to see the built up area. Normally I’m only too glad to get out of it into open countryside. But today, even Eccles and Patricroft looked appealing.

Mind you, the straight lengths of canal that take you through Trafford Park’ ubiquitous and endless Industrial Estate were mind-numbing. Just as you feel you might be getting to an end of it, along comes a slight curve necessitating a twitch on the tiller and a whole new straight length appears.

Our cup overflowed when we came across a fishing match going on outside the Kellogg’s’ factory. I hope the location has nothing to do with the disposal of their catch. Carp flavoured corn flakes….. On second thoughts!

Eventually we reached Waters Meeting (where we had turned into the Leigh Branch from the Warrington direction a few weeks ago) and prepared for the turn – this time to the left towards Manchester City Centre - by a long blast on our hooter.

Hearing nothing in return we upped the revs and started the turn into the blind corner only to be virtually mown down by another narrowboat suddenly appearing out of nowhere and turning into the Leigh Branch from Manchester. I had to take swift avoiding action to prevent a collision.

Didn’t he hear the horn? Was he blind? No, he was completely encased in a plastic pram cover that he probably couldn’t see out of with the rain. No, they don’t have windscreen wipers. IDIOT! We eventually made it out into the main line of the Bridgewater and headed onto waters that we hadn’t cruised for 7 years.

The main highlight was passing right by the North Stand of the Theatre of Dreams. That’s Old Trafford, home of Manchester United to all you non-footie fans. Exactly one year and one week ago I, with Kathryn & Emma (daughters 2 & 3), was part of a large crowd watching our beloved Peterborough United take part in the League 1 Play Off Final at Old Trafford against Huddersfield. We won 3-0 on a never to be forgotten afternoon. Ah….what dreams are made of.

The high rise modern architecture of Salford Quays appeared a short distance beyond the off side of the canal, with the Metro Link coming alongside at Pomona Station before it rises to cross over the canal and join the Sale and Altrincham line that we had paralleled on our inward journey a few weeks ago.

Waste land, modern high rise apartment blocks and old industrial buildings now combined with a succession of ornate and colourful railway bridges to herald the approach to Castlefield Basins. It had been our intention to turn left into the Staffordshire Arms to moor as we had done on our last visit.

However, the preferred arm had a “No Mooring” sign just as you entered it, and the other was blocked by one of the trip boats. So we had to reverse, wind and head back across the canal to the opposite arm and follow that until we found a mooring.

Except we couldn’t as it was full of boats. Not a space to be had. We managed to wind again at the far end in front of the twin “lift bridges” that guard “Grocer’s Warehouse”.  The inverted commas show that the warehouse and bridges are modern recreations of the long demolished and scrapped originals. They couldn’t even rebuild the warehouse properly, only to first floor level!

We were a bit depressed as we started to crawl back up the arm to the main line of the canal. It was still raining; we were cold and hungry……Ahhh. Fortunately fellow RBOA members (Residential Boat Owners Association) members on ‘Best O’ Mates’ took pity on us and invited us to breast up against them. We were so grateful.

As the afternoon wore on, they seemed to be the only boaters to offer double breasting and several more boats have crawled to the end, turned and then crawled back out again without anyone else offering the same courtesy.

So now it was get the TV aerial up, get out the bunting (again!) and have lunch. What was it, I hear you ask? Something nice? Exotic even perhaps? No, Heinz Tomato Soup and bacon butties. And delicious it was too!

And then it was time to sit back and watch the Diamond Jubilee Thames Pageant on the Beeb. Needless to say there was too much chat, too much celebrity nobodies and as for Anneka Rice and the artists…. Don’t get me started.

There was far too little information about the historic boats taking part and as for the narrowboats (including ‘President’) - hardly anything. At least we heard ‘President’s’ whistle as she passed the royal party on ‘HMS President’. Apt name for a naval ship…

We will be here for several days now. I’m not sure if there is a mooring limit on the Bridgewater – there are no signs anywhere to say one way or another, but we will be here probably until Wednesday or Thursday.

By then we will have to move to use the sanitary station on the main line and then perhaps move back in again as we are not booked for the journey out of Manchester on the Rochdale Canal until a week on Tuesday. We will move up the infamous Rochdale 9 locks to the Piccadilly area on the Monday, so have a week or so to explore Manchester, something we haven’t really done before.

After lunch, Kathryn phoned to say that in view of Tuesday’s weather forecast (same as today – p*ss awful), they decided a day in a park wouldn’t be a good idea, and we’ve postponed the visit until, hopefully, Father’s Day when we shall be going down the other side of the Pennines between Todmorden and Sowerby Bridge.

Sorry there aren’t any piccies today. It was raining too hard to get the camera out! But I've found one taken in 1977 or 1978 when my mate Derek & I cruised the Cheshire Ring both years. The view has changed a bit since then and I will hopefully get some more piccies up in the next few days,

Entrance to the arm leading to Grocer's Warehouse, Castlefield Basins, Manchester in 1977 or 1978

Saturday June 2nd, Wigan - Pennington Flash, near Leigh



Henhurst Lock, Wigan

Once Elaine had returned from a walk into the town centre for a newspaper we untied and pushed across to the other side so she could work Henhurst Lock.

After she had managed to wind the winding handle on the heavy capstan mechanism that is used to open and shut the bottom gates, we were soon through the lock and pulling into the sanitary station to empty the loos. We are going to be based on the Bridgewater until the 11^th when we will hopefully get the Rochdale 9 out of the way in readiness for our booked passage out of Manchester on the 12^th, and I don’t want to frequent the Bridgewater’s so called sanitary stations more often than I have to.

Poolstock Top Lock

Round the junction and on the Leigh Branch we made for Poolstock Locks. Isn’t it strange how one lock can be more or less full and ready for you and the next, just a matter of a hundred yards or so below, is completely empty? No matter, the locks were negotiated safely and we were on our way along the long lonely pound towards Leigh and the Bridgewater Canal.

Gate opening mechanism, Poolstock Bottom Lock

The two Poolstock Locks mark the end of the Wigan built-up area and almost immediately you are in the former wasteland caused by hundreds of years of coal extraction. Numerous flashes surround the canal on both sides – Scotsman’s, Pearson’s, Bryn, Ochre, most are now the focal points of a large nature reserve and Country Park.

Scotsman's Flash

For nearly two miles no road comes near the canal as it makes its way through the recovering landscape. However, plenty of footpaths wind in and out across footbridges and round the flashes. They are well frequented by walkers, joggers and cyclists, but primarily by people walking their dogs. Do watch where you put your feet if you happen to walk around here as I don’t think the locals go in for pooper bags!

The only way the C21st impinges on your progress is by two main road crossings at Bamfurlong and Abram (the latter by the site of the two former Dover Locks) and two railways crossing overhead. It is a remote, almost eerie landscape.

Fortunately we reached the third road crossing (on the outskirts of Leigh) at the right time to be able to operate Plank Lane Swing Bridge and took great delight in holding up two long lines of traffic.

Mooring at Pennington Flash

When we had passed this way towards Wigan in early May we had noticed boats moored adjacent to Pennington Flash, the largest of the open expanses of water, and now the centrepiece of a country park. Rather than go on a bit further through Leigh to Astley Green where the pub might be a bit noisy over the Jubilee Bank Holiday weekend, we decided to give the Flash a try, and pulled up after our regulation three hours cruising.

Friday June 1st, Parbold to Wigan

Yesterday was a wash out with wall to wall rain from Wednesday night to Thursday mid-afternoon.  Once again, as we have time in hand before we have to be in Manchester we were in the fortunate position of not having to move.

So we didn’t!

At least this morning dawned dry, if a bit grey. We set off not seeing a soul moving on any of the boats tied up on the visitor moorings; indeed we didn’t see any moving boats until we got to Wigan!

Douglas Valley near Appley Bridge

The cruise from Parbold along the Douglas Valley is a delight. However, it was noticeable just how much the trees and shrubs have grown in the three weeks since we cruised past in the opposite direction. The hawthorn blossom is more or less over, buttercups and cow parsley bloom in the canal’s grassy edges and the trees have opened their leaves fully. Places where we could look through the towpath hedge and see the more distant landscape have now closed up and the views are not possible any more.

Approaching Appley Lock

Appley Lock is always a bit daunting when you are travelling without the company of another boat, especially uphill as we are. At 12’ deep and broad, it looks huge, and when the bottom gates close behind you, you feel a bit overwhelmed.

We took things very, very steady, with Elaine opening one ground paddle very, very carefully. It may take longer, but at least the boat doesn’t swing from side to side, bashing the sides of the lock.

Inside Appley Lock

Eventually we reached the upper level and were away. Dean’s Lock is next with the high level crossing by the M6 of the river, canal and railway. The latter has been following the canal at very close quarters, but at a higher level since leaving Parbold. Apart from the road bridge at Appley Bridge there is no other road bridge until the M6 and the nearby bridge at Gathurst. Indeed, apart from a few footpaths, the canal and river meander along in almost complete seclusion.

At Ell’s Meadow Lock we finally saw our first moving boats of the day. At least they weren’t moving much as we had reached a boat-jam. Derek on his Leeds & Liverpool wide boat ‘Ambush’ from which he retails diesel and other necessities was in mid-channel waiting for a squashed toad (sorry – a widebeam narrowboat) to descend the lock. Consequently it was some time before we could enter.

Then, we seemed to have awakened the local boaters as we passed another boat between Ell Meadow and Pagefield Lock, another arrived just as we were exiting Pagefield Lock, and once we had tied up in Wigan, blow me down but two pairs went past us heading in the Liverpool direction.

Roman Numerals at Wigan Bottom Lock

As we entered Wigan Bottom Lock, I noticed some Roman numerals carved into the tail of the lock stating this was lock 23. This confirms that the Wigan flight is one of 23, not the more familiarly known title of the "Wigan 21". That merely refers to the 21 locks from the junction with the Leigh Branch to the top lock. Most people conveniently forget there are two further locks below the junction and this carved numeral confirms it.

Elaine had great fun in trying to close the gates of this bottom lock. We had only used one, and as she closed it, the other gate slowly swung open. When she went round to close it, the orignal gate swung open. In the end, she had to raise a bottom paddle to get the gates to close properly. Proper comical it was too!

We were surprised to see no boats on the BW Regional Office secure moorings and when, after lunch, when we walked up to Henhurst Bridge to go shopping and looked back, ‘Patience’ looked very lonely as there was not another boat tied up in Wigan.

By the time we got back though, another boat had joined us, but again travelling in the Liverpool direction – are we the only ones heading away from Liverpool?

Wednesday May 30th, Glover's Swing Bridge, Burscough - Parbold

Not much to report today as we only cruised the short distance back to Parbold – just 3 miles and a solitary swing bridge. It took all of one hour!
Apart from a nasty niff coming from one (or both) of the two sewage works we passed, it was an uneventful journey. Along the way we crossed the tiny River Tawd (said by some to be the origin of the word ‘tawdry’ on a stone aqueduct.

As we approached the moorings at Parbold, we could see they were looking a bit full, so we were pleased when the chap on ‘Shanty Bay’ (who had moved out of the way for us at Burscough Sanitary Station a few days before) beckoned us over to the moorings on the off side where he was. These are, strictly speaking, long-term moorings, but there was plenty of space  and we tied up in front of him.

And that’s about it!



Parbold Windmill & Bridge

Tuesday May 29th, Rufford - Glover's Swing Bridge, near Burscough

So summer’s over then. A much cooler and cloudier start to the day than we have seen for a week or so. Fortunately we were able to enjoy what seems like the last day of summer yesterday at the wonderful Rufford Old Hall, a National Trust property just over the canal from the moorings, but about a half mile to walk to.

Exterior of Great Hall, Rufford Old Hall

Detail from The Screen

Garden Front, Rufford Old Hall

Having untied we cruised under the road bridge and turned right into St Mary’s Marina where we exchanged a gas cylinder and were able to empty a loo (for free – the loo that is, not the gas!). We had been warned off the other marina (Fettler’s Wharf Marina), the entrance to which is directly opposite St Mary’s, as they are a bit unfriendly to visiting boats – and don’t try to wind in the entrance or you’ll get shouted at!

Business successfully transacted we manoeuvred out and headed for Rufford Lock, as we regretfully retraced out steps up the arm and back to Burscough Junction.

Potato fields are everywhere – some in full growth (earlies), some just showing (maincrop). It must be a picture when the plants are in flower – purple, pink & white all around.

Plenty of water, Rufford Arm

Moss Lock, Rufford Arm

We passed a few boats we had seen moored up on our way down, they had just moved up a lock or two and tied up again. Can’t say I blame them. Otherwise it was as quiet as the proverbial church mouse.

Elaine worked her way up the locks steadily, enjoying, as I had on the way down, the wide variety of paddle gear. Fortunately, every lock was empty apart from the second from the top which appears to be always full thanks to badly leaking top gates. One boat was met at Runnel Brow Lock – the first moving boat of the day.

Just as we finished rising in this lock, we saw movement at the top lock and were surprised to see two more boats waiting to enter the arm (and two more round the corner waiting to join them). So, Elaine had a lot of help at the top (including the swing bridge). Two of the boats had been in Salthouse Dock with us (we had passed them near Crabtree Lane Swing Bridge a few days ago) and Elaine got a good bit of reassurance about the Rochdale Canal which is where we’re headed.

Glover's Swing Bridge

Once out of the lock we turned left at the junction and negotiated Glover's Swing Bridge where I was particularly pleased to delay two sporty Audis, the drivers of which looked a bit depressed at having to wait for a mere boat. Why is it that most examples of bad/inconsiderate/arrogant driving seem to be from drivers of Mercedes, BMW’s and Audis? Is it a German thing?......

Enough of the political incorrectness.

Mooring near Glover's Swing Bridge

Just through the bridge we tied up and enjoyed the sun which had by now made an appearance and was replicating the heat of the last few days.