Thursday Jul 19th, near Hyde Bank Tunnel - Marple

We had looked at the weather forecast for yesterday and saw that it was allegedly going to be evil. So we decided to stay where we were. Sure enough when we got up it was raining and early on it poured.

You will note the use of the word “allegedly”.

We were just beginning to congratulate ourselves for making a wise choice, when the rain stopped and, once the clouds had cleared, out came the blue sky & sunshine!

Forecast – tchah!

Yes, we could have started later and gone up the locks into Marple, but a few boats had already passed us and with dire warnings of low pounds in the flight we decided to stay put until today when the forecast was allegedly significantly better.

You will note the continued use of the word “allegedly”.

As we set off this morning, it was to the accompaniment of grey skies and low cloud. It looked ominous.

The former Rose Hall Tunnel

Immediately after our mooring we crept under a bridge and into a narrow channel through a cutting. This was the former Rose Hill Tunnel, long since opened out. Through this narrow section and the canal then leaps out across Marple Aqueduct where it crosses the deep ravine that carries the River Goyt.

Lookin back across Marple Aqueduct

It is a startling transformation – from narrow cutting, formerly a tunnel straight out to sailing in the air high above the river. I can think of only one other case like it – where the Llangollen Canal strides across the River Ceiriog on Chirk Aqueduct and straight into Chirk Tunnel.

Marple Railway Viaduct from the Canal Aqueduct

It is a shame that the vista on the west side is limited by a wall and tree growth. But to the east, despite the proximity of the adjacent and higher railway viaduct, there are fine views of the river deep down in its gorge.

And then, having been high up in the air, the canal starts to climb the Marple Lock flight. And it was here that today’s “allegedly” fine weather actually turned out to be torrential rain.

Approaching bottom lock, Marple

Forecast – tchah!

For the first hour or so up the flight we got thoroughly soaked. Not that, you will recall, we haven’t got soaked on this cruise before. Far from it, we’ve almost been soaked more than we’ve been dry. But you do get a bit fed up with it all after a while. And we’re totally fed up.

It was such a shame as the Marple flight is one of the prettiest on the network, and we were not seeing it at its best!

The flight of 16 deep locks winds its way up the hillside climbing some 208 feet in a mile, some climb under any circumstances. For the first half the canal is engulfed by trees with the land falling away steeply on the towpath side down to the river below. Wide pools help store more water which in theory help to keep the short pounds topped up.

Old roller on top of bridge

And then, about half way up, under a main road bridge, the surroundings change as the houses of Marple take over. A rare survival is an old roller, enabling the horse to get a good pull on the towrope.

Despite the main road and some modern housing, the canal and the locks keep their own atmosphere as trees and attractive cottages (some former lock cottages), some with lovely gardens, ensure that the canal retains its own character.

The weather also changed as the rain at last eased and soon stopped altogether. Too late for us, we were already drenched.

Oldknow's Warehouse

One of the Peak Forest Canal’s promoters was a merchant called Samuel Oldknow. He ensured prime position for his warehouse by siting it beside lock 9 and it, and a former lockkeeper’s cottage opposite have both survived. The warehouse is now offices but has managed to retain the arch through which boats would have been unloaded. The cottage is now a charming private residence.

Former lock cottage

Horse tunnel at Possett Bridge

Posset Bridge is so named because, so the story goes, Mr Oldknow offered the canal builders that he would provide a posset of ale for each workman if they finished the bridge on time. Needless to say, they did! It possesses a separate horse towing path tunnel alongside the canal arch. A further disused arch is visible on the east side which once led to a loading bay for a quarry – long vanished and the arch blocked off.

Terraced houses line one side of the canal as it staggers up the last few locks, with seemingly impossibly short pounds in between. The answer is in the long and sinuous side ponds that extend to the off-side curving away out of sight. These have been utilised by adjacent houseowners as additions to their gardens and colonised by the inevitable ducks.

Finally we arrived at the top lock. We had been helped up the last few locks by a young “hobbler” – someone who hangs around locks and helps work boats up and down the flight. We had been told about him by Peter & Jennifer on ‘Deryn Du’ who he had also helped down the flight. Pity we hadn’t seen him earlier – mind you he was probably sensible and didn’t start until the rain had stopped.

Not having seen a boat all day, two boats appeared at the top to go down so it was a bit confusing for a while as we all sorted out where we were going to go in the restricted space at the junction. We managed to turn sharp right under the roving bridge and temporarily enter the Macclesfield Canal. We know from bitter experience that moorings on the Upper Peak Forest Canal are non-existent and rather than slog down to the terminus in our wet gear, we decided to tie up on the Macclesfield, then turn tomorrow morning, retrace our steps to the junction and head for Bugsworth Basin then.

For the first time for some considerable time, we have managed to get front and back ends of the boat in tight to the bank which is blessed with mooring rings. Luxury!

We are now going to try a Spanish restaurant recommended in Pearson’s Canal Guide for lunch. Hope his forecast is more accurate than the weatherman’s attempt!

PS: the restaurant was fabulous – Murillo’s in Stockport Road – thoroughly recommended!