Friday May 4th, Astley Green - Wigan

We wanted to have another early start so as to get to Wigan in good time to get a mooring at our preferred spot just above Henhurst Lock. We actually made it our earliest start of the cruise so far!

The landscape today was almost exclusively more of what we ended up with yesterday, nature’s attempts to reclothe the old coal mining scars with greenery.

A string of old mining villages follow the line of the canal from a distance – Astley Green, Marsland Green, Bedford, Firs Lane, Plank Lane, Crankwood, Abram and Bamfurlong, with the combined coal and mill town of Leigh in between.

Old mills at Leigh

Indeed, once through Astley Bridge, the cupolas and towers of Leigh’s old mills could be seen on the horizon. Past Marsland Green, a steady stream of kids made their way along the towpath to a large comprehensive school on the outskirts of Leigh – some already smoking, and some of the girls looking as if they’d rather be dolled up and enjoying the night spots that Leigh has to offer.

A new Tesco has been developed along with some other identikit retail units along the off side of the canal. Sadly they have not bothered to put in moorings for boaters wishing to avail themselves of the facilities.

Leigh Bridge

Leigh Bridge is the demarcation point between the Leigh Branch of the Bridgewater Canal and the Leigh Branch of the Leeds & Liverpool Canal and we were once again back on British Waterways waters.

After a busy road bridge the canal enters a landscape visibly scarred by coal mining. The land, particularly to the south, has subsided significantly and the canal has had to be built up several times to retain the level. A huge flash has been converted into the centrepiece of Pennington Flash Country Park, which, in addition to having a golf course, has fishing and watersport facilities. It is a very attractive setting and is enjoyed by many walkers, mostly dog owners.

Plank Lane Swing Bridge (actually a lift bridge)

The electrically operated Plank Lane Swing Bridge (actually a lift bridge) caused us a 45 minute delay. It has always been operated by a British Waterways bridge-keeper who is on duty from 8.00 in the morning. It has recently been changed to a boater operated bridge (BW key required) but the power is actually turned off from 8.00 to 9.30 in the morning and from 4.30 to 6.00 in the evening due to “rush hour”. Anyone would think we’re talking about the M25 here, but in fact it is a little by-road to nowhere in particular.

We arrived at 8.40 and had to twiddle our thumbs before the power returned. There has been no notices about the change in use, and even British Waterways’ own ‘Waterscape’ website still gives the bridge-keepers hours on the boaters’ guide to the canal.  ARGGGHHH!

Old pub at Plank Lane - now long gone

When we passed here two years ago, we noticed that the old derelict pub and housing we had seen two years earlier had gone. They had suffered major subsidence and were leaning at every angle .Major land clearance and levelling was under way. This time we found a large open pool of water surrounded by decorative railings had appeared just before the bridge, and that the land behind was all ready for some form of development.

It appears that British Waterways had the idea of creating a marina here with associated leisure use buildings alongside – pub, retail units etc., but has found no takers. It makes a great winding hole though!

Under way again, we continued through the scarred landscape, on one side travelling at tree-top level, so much is the subsidence.

Site of Dover Locks

At the Dover Locks Inn, we passed through the narrows caused by two former locks that have been removed to Poolstock (a bit further on) due to subsidence. An old lock at Plank Lane was also been removed for the same reason.

After a flurry of civilisation at Bamfurlong, where the A58 Liverpool to Leeds road and the West Coast railway line both cross, the canal enters a length of old mine workings reclaimed by gorse, scrub and water to form a network of nature reserves. A few rusting reminders remain of former coal loading shuts where coal was loaded onto wide boats to feed the ever-hungry Wigan Power Station, the site of which is now the Giro headquarters.

Poolstock Bottom Lock

After passing another flash dotted with the coloured sails of dinghies, we arrived at the two Poolstock Locks which raised us about 14 feet and into the suburbs of Wigan. The bottom lock has some unconventional windlasses to open one of the bottom gates.

By now the wind, which had been fairly light, increased in strength and it turned quite cold and it started to spit with rain so we were quite happy to reach the junction with the main line of the Leeds & Liverpool and turn sharp left where we tied up just above Henhurst Lock.

Tomorrow we shall head across to the sanitary station to do the usual jobs, and then drop down the lock to the secure offside moorings outside BW’s Regional Headquarters where we shall stay, probably until Monday when we will start to make our way down to Liverpool.