Wednesday July 11th, Dukinfield Junction - Stalybridge

After yet another day when we didn’t move due to more prolonged and very heavy rain, we got going this morning for the short cruise to Stalybridge.

Despite being fine as we started, within 15 minutes it had started to rain again by the time we got to the first lock.

Immediately after we started off the towpath rises up to the road while the canal plunges under the Asda Tunnel – so called as there is an Asda superstore plonked on top. A towpath was created through the tunnel but has now been completely blocked off. I wonder why?

Ashton Old Wharf

Beyond the tunnel the canal curves round under the railway viaduct to Ashton Old Wharf with its collection of moored boats and the winding hole. This is actually the end of the Ashton Canal, but as so few boats ventured this way while the Huddersfield Narrow Canal was derelict, the guides have got in the habit of assuming that Dukinfield Junction is the terminus. What it is to be a canal anorak.

We actually moored here back in 2005 when we had cruised from Marple on our way to the IWA Rally at Preston Brook. We couldn’t find a decent mooring at the junction and Pearson’s Guide had a mooring bollard sign here, so we tried it. It was fine!

Immediately beyond the basin is the bottom lock of the Huddersfield Narrow Canal, the first of 72 locks in less than 20 miles. Uniquely the locks are numbered from 1W to 32W on the west side of the summit tunnel and from 42E to 1E on the east side.

Unusual gate & paddle gear at Lock 1W

Lock 1W is unusual as it has a large hydraulic drum which powers the gates – turn the windlass many, many times to open and shut them. There are no balance beams at all due to the skew road bridge which had been extended over the tail of the lock. It also has the two hydraulic paddles side by side and adjacent to the drum mechanism.

There was also a nasty niff assailing our nostrils as we both approached the lock, Elaine on the boat, and me walking through the towpath tunnel under the road as the lockwheeler. It was almost as if someone had emptied their cassette toilet somewhere nearby.

It was now that the rain started, and for a time our coats came on and off, were done up and undone…….. We’re both thoroughly fed up with the constant rainfall.

Mills around Dukinfield

There is a short length before the next two locks as we pass imperceptibly between Dukinfield and Stalybridge. This length, and the length above, is intensely industrial with many old mills lining the canal on both sides.

Some are still obviously being used (although not necessarily for their original textile purpose), some cling onto a somewhat precarious existence, some are clearly derelict with no window glass and damaged walls & roofs while one had been reduced to two huge piles of demolition rubble , so high that trainee mountaineers could hone their skills here. Large diggers with long protruding jointed arms (rather like the limbs of a praying mantis) dipped and raised their heads as they picked away at the rubble.

Tame Aqueduct - note gap between canal & towpath

After Locks 2 & 3W the canal crosses the River Tame on an aqueduct. It is notable for having hardly any safety walls, just a low railing on both sides. However, the towpath, which rises over the river on its own stone aqueduct -a very rare occurrence - provides at least some semblance of security. The river was running quite fiercely which, given all the rain we’ve had recently, was not too much of a surprise.

The canal now curves round, leaving the mills behind, and enters a brand new concrete and stone faced world. The course of the canal through Stalybridge town centre had been totally eradicated and built over and posed one of the major headaches for the restorers.

The initial idea had been to utilise the river for a stretch (never a preferred option), but the bold decision was taken to rebuild as near to the original line as possible, and make the new canal the focal point of the town centre – which it has notably achieved.

Lock 4W, Stalybridge

Lock 5W, Stalybridge

It rises through three rebuilt locks and under a flurry of bridges to enter Armentieres Square where it is indeed the centrepoint of the area. Whilst it is unfortunate that a canalside row of shops have recently been gutted by fire and an adjacent pub badly damaged and closed as a result, the surroundings are quite pleasant with all facilities within easy reach.

Through the arches - a flurry of new bridges at Stalybridge

 

Mooring at Armentieres Square, Stalybridge

Here, we tied up with a view of the hills ahead. Hills that for the most part of the day were shrouded in mist, but as I type this they are in full view with blue skies and a strange yellow thingie in the sky.

The hills await.........

We have done a major store-cupboard shop at the big Tesco opposite, and both of us have also had haircuts – the first since we left High House Wharf at the end of March! In my case, I left more on the hairdresser’s floor than I had left on top!

We shall stay here tomorrow as well. We have plenty of time in hand for the remaining 26 locks and 7 miles to Standedge Tunnel as we are not booked to go through until a week today, the first slot we could get!