Tuesday July 17th, Dukinfield Junction - near Hyde Bank Tunnel

After more rain overnight and more this morning, it was a fairly fed up couple who set off this morning expecting to get soaked again.

Funnily enough, after such an inauspicious start, it almost cleared up. There was the odd smattering of rain, but the outbreaks had longer intervals between them and didn’t last as long.

Dukinfield Junction

After making the very tight turn into the Peak Forest Canal, we immediately crossed the River Tame on the substantial aqueduct and set off on the lock free pound towards Marple. Did I say “lock free”? It’s the first cruising day without having to work a lock since June 3^rd when we left Leigh to make for Castlefield Basin.

Tame Aqueduct from river level

Lift Bridge at Dukinfield

Mind you, the windlass wasn’t totally inactive as a lift bridge soon after the junction needs one to wind it up and down as well as a handcuff key to unlock it. It carries a track that led to the optimistically named Plantation Farm (it was one once before industrialisation and urbanisation swallowed up the land). Here lived Mary Moffat, the mother in law of the explorer David Livingstone.  He is said to have been inspired by her life as a missionary.

Despite being caught up in the suburbs of Dukinfield, Hyde & Romily the canal essays a rural course managing to avoid the worst excesses of factories. There are occasional outbursts of industrial buildings, but the canal is tree lined and sheltered.

The trees do, however, cause the odd moment of worry every now again as they have not been cut back for many a year and in places have overgrown the canal so much that visibility is seriously restricted. In one particular place the steerer is completely blind as he is engulfed in leafy foliage for some distance. Good job there wasn’t any boat coming from the other direction as there was no way they could have seen me and I certainly wouldn’t have seen them.

The rural idyll is seriously disturbed at Hyde as the M67 (or at least the short section of motorway that was actually built between Manchester & Sheffield before the money and the ideas ran out) makes its presence felt at first by the noise and then by a long skew concrete viaduct. This caused the canal channel to be rerouted and results in two right angle bends as it regains the original course.

Here there is a nice combination of buildings – two canalside warehouses and a lovely turnover bridge where the towpath is taken from one side to the other in such a way as to enable the horse to cross the canal to the other side without removing the towing rope. They are beautiful structures and we will see many more on the Macclesfield later on.



Approaching Woodley Tunnel

Despite being lock free, the canal is not without interest. Two tunnels interrupt the journey as the canal burrows under a couple of low ridges. The first, Woodley Tunnel, is just 168 yards long and is narrow having to accommodate the towpath as well. The second at Hyde Bank is just under twice as long, but here the towpath is taken over the top and theoretically two boats can pass inside its low bore.

South east portal of Hyde Bank Tunnel

For the first time today we have actually seen steel piled banking – the first since we left the Trent & Mersey Canal in late April. And, not long after Hyde Bank Tunnel we saw another boat tied up on a long length of piled banking and so we thought we’d give it a go. To our surprise (at least after the experience of the last week or so), we could get into the side quite easily as here we stopped. Tomorrow, the windlasses will come out again, but we’ve had a nice easy day with not too much rain. Although the towpath is a quagmire, we have actually seen some sun this afternoon!!!!!

Monday July 16th, Above Lock 8, Millbrook - Dukinfield Junction

Well, the weather didn’t play ball and we’re back to drizzle and rain again.

After utilising the sanitary station, we were on our way down the remaining locks. Eight to do today, and although none were completely full, there was only one that was less than half full.

We retraced our steps through the industrial entrails of Stalybridge to the rebuilt section and the four rebuilt locks that take the canal right through the heart of this likeable town.

I also like the new locks here. At three of them, the top paddles are on the same side, standing side by side and on the towpath side which saves you a trek to the other end of the lock to the bridge and then back the other side to work the off side paddle.

Pepperpot blowhole

However, do beware the blowholes of Stalybridge. They lurk literally right behind where you stand to raise the paddle and if you are too quick raising them, you get a spray up the inside of your trouser leg, or a soaked backside.

Pepperpot blowhole

I much prefer the pepperpot style used by the Huddersfield Canal Society on the locks they restored.

Semi derelict mill at Ashton (although there were lights on indide!)

Beyond the rebuilt section the canal passes through another rather grimy industrial section through the surviving mill landscape. The last few locks come fairly quickly and that means you arrive all too soon at the bottom lock with its balance beam-less bottom gates. The “hydraulic” winding gear that opens and shuts the gates seemed even heavier and tougher to work than it did on the outward journey!

Then, through Asda Tunnel, we found ourselves back at Dukinfield Junction where we moored upon the same spot as we had used a few days before. We were delighted to see our friends Jennifer & Peter on “Deryn Du” moored just behind us, although they were about to set off. “Nothing personal” they assured us. We had a good chinwag first before they left. They had set off up the Huddersfield Narrow just a day or so behind us, and had turned round as we had.

Soon after they left, Jo & Keith on “Hadar” arrived from the Ashton Canal, and, having tried unsuccessfully to get in near us, winded at the Old Wharf and turned onto the Peak Forest Canal to find a place to tie up.

After lunch (and a torrential downpour) they came round for coffee and a long natter.

It’s lovely when you meet up with friends on the canal and today was a much brighter day for doing so in spite of the rain.

Sunday July 15th, Uppermill - above Lock 8W, near Millbrook

Two days on the trot now – sunshine and no rain! It won’t last long.

Despite the disappointment of turning round and heading back to Manchester, we enjoyed Uppermill. Almost a good mooring (at least the front end was against the bank), sunshine, nice shops and good fish & chips from Betty’s.

Royal George Lock, Greenfield

Today we simply retraced our steps of yesterday and headed back down the locks. There seemed to be a bit more water in the cut, but I had to watch the revs all the time and at no time could I approach anything resembling usual speed. The worst section was again the pound between locks 17W & 18W across the Royal George Aqueduct. I had to look hard at the bank just to make sure the boat was in fact moving at all.

River Tame from Roaches Lock

Still we got to our target of the long mooring with bollards between lock 8W & the sanitary station in relatively good time. We were a bit surprised to see two boats tied up at the sanitary station – the only moving boats (once they’d finished) of the day.

Half demolished coal gantry between locks 9W & 8W

Mooring above Lock 8W

One notable feature has been the well-used towpath. It’s a Sunday I know, but there have been loads of people out on the towpath – walkers & hikers, bikers, joggers, dog walkers & families with young kids – even a few cheerful fishermen. They really seem to love seeing the boats and it’s a shame that more don’t come this way.

Saturday July 14th, Roaches Lock, 15W - Uppermill

For once, we were able to cruise today without being swathed up in jumpers, fleeces and full wet weather gear – the first time for nearly 10 days. The sun actually shone, and, apart from a few odd spots in the late afternoon, it has been dry and warm. Let’s hope it’s the start of some better weather.

We have now moved from the outer entrails of Manchester’s built up suburbs and, following the River Tame have climbed into countryside with fine views of the high moors on both sides of the canal.

Mooring at Lock 15W - see how far out the boat is.

The only downside to today’s journey was the continuing and appalling lack of depth in the canal, even in centre channel. It really is difficult to keep from going aground. At one point, even though I was about 5-6 feet out from the towpath, I could hear the boat’s bottom scraping on the canal’s silted up bed.

It is not necessarily lack of water, as water was gushing over most lock overflow weirs, just a general and longstanding lack of dredging. It’s sad, as the canal is getting very pretty and the best bits are up ahead, but we will be glad to retrace our steps to Dukinfield Junction and, hopefully, the relatively deeper waters of the Peak Forest & Macclesfield Canals, not that that’s saying much usually.

View from Royal George Aqueduct

At one point, between locks 17W & 18W, as the canal passes over the River Tame again on the Royal George Aqueduct, I could not get the boat to go any faster than tickover. It was an age before I could get into the upper lock; indeed I was worried if I could even get over the bottom cill.

View from Greenfield

So much so, that most concentration went into keeping the boat moving, however slowly, rather than looking around and soaking up the views. When we were able to look up and around, the views were fantastic. It’s so sad, in a way, that because of the long term blockage part way down the eastern side we are having to curtail our visit to this canal here at Uppermill.

Arriving in the village (or small town) which more or less acts as the focal point for the surrounding settlements of Dobcross and Saddleworth through a lock with an absent bottom gate balance beam (due as usual to a road widening), we turned at the winding hole and reversed back through a bridge to what we felt were the better moorings – much lighter not being overhung by tall and leafy trees.

Mooring at Uppermill

Once again we had problems getting in to the side and we have ended up again with the back end stuck out a few feet from the towpath. Fortunately, the bow is against the towpath, so we can get on and off with a bit more ease than yesterday.

Uppermill is a delightful place with characterful local shops that has managed to evolve from its former cotton weaving industry into being the focus for the local tourist trade. Judging by the property prices in the estate agents’ windows, it is evidently part of the stockbroker belt for Manchester and Huddersfield.

Uppermill

So tomorrow we start our return down the Huddersfield Narrow. It is the first time we have admitted defeat and not completed the journey we have planned. That it is largely as a result of forces outside our control (rain & flood) is of little matter. Even had it been open throughout as normal, I think we would still question the advisability of continuing any further given that the shallowness seems to extend most of the way through to Huddersfield according to several people we have spoken to.

Friday July 13th, Stalybridge to Lock 15W, Woodend

What a day! We set off in the inevitable drizzle after a disturbed Thursday night in Stalybridge. Seems the weekend starts early in Stalybridge as from midnight onwards we, and the other two boats moored up with us, were disturbed by noisy revellers staggering out of what passes for night clubs in this town.

Lock 7W & Mottram Road Bridge

This morning was grey, misty and damp, after a day and a half when we actually saw a strange yellowy thing in the sky. We were soon through lock 7W and on the longest pound of the day of about ¾ of a mile.

This long pound is a bit of a strange animal. It is heavily wooded on the towpath side, but the off side has the river and railway in quite close attention and has attracted a sort of ribbon development of factories and old mills. One of the old mills is still in use as a paper mill and you don’t see many of those today in the UK.

Electricity pylon straddling canal

After the second lock of the day, we stopped at the sanitary station and emptied the loo, got rid of the rubbish and filled up with water.

A massive electricity sub-station stands adjacent to the canal where a slightly diverted channel takes the canal right underneath a massive electricity pylon. A sewage farm adds a nauseous nasty niff to the surroundings and a half demolished coal gantry comes to an abrupt end high above the canal, the end sticking out like a broken tooth. It once carried coal from an adjacent branch railway line (now a popular walkway & cycle way) across to a closed and demolished power station.

Northern portal of Scout Tunnel

The short but narrow Scout Tunnel and a flurry of locks takes the canal up to Mossley where we tentatively tried to moor for the first (and by no means the last time).

The only high point of the day came with the arrival of Bilbo, the well-known boat horse hauling the butty ‘Maria’, led as always by Sue Day. As always is the case with a horse drawn boat, we passed starboard side to starboard (rather than the usual port side to port) so as not to interfere with the towing rope.

Sue Day with Bilbo and 'Maria'

Sue Day & Bilbo

Lock 13W, leaving Mossley

Old mill at Woodley

Two more locks followed, close by two enormous mills somehow clinging onto a from precarious life with the river channelled through their premises – a legacy, no doubt, their early days when the river provided the power.

Again, we tried to tie up to no avail. The canal is extremely shallow and nowhere could we get close enough to the side. However, Pearson’s guide has a bollard sign just before lock 15W and a long row of bollards lifted our hopes. However, here again, on what is a designated visitor mooring, we had problems. The only place we could get close enough to jump to the towpath was just before the lock. Technically, we are on the lock landing but we are highly unlikely to see any more boats.

Our cup overflowed when we found out that our journey to Huddersfield was going to be cut short. A couple of days ago we had an e-mail alert from the Canal & River Trust (C&RT for short) saying that due to the high rainfall a considerable amount of debris had collected in the canal between locks 14E & 15E, the other side of the summit tunnel. Investigations were under way, and the upshot was that today we had a follow up message to say that work wouldn’t start until next week and would take at least 2 weeks.

It seems extremely pointless to spend 1¾ hours heading through Standedge Tunnel only to turn round and come straight back through taking another 1¾ hours, having had to make another booking to come through and possibly not been able to moor anywhere convenient. After all the canal will be here another day.

So we have taken the decision to carry on to Uppermill where the next winding hole is, turn round and head back to Stalybridge, Dukinfield and then head for home as we had planned to do on our return from Huddersfield.

We are disappointed (well, Elaine’s probably relieved), but as I said, the canal will still be here and we can perhaps try it another year.

It has not been the best of days to say the least.

Wednesday July 11th, Dukinfield Junction - Stalybridge

After yet another day when we didn’t move due to more prolonged and very heavy rain, we got going this morning for the short cruise to Stalybridge.

Despite being fine as we started, within 15 minutes it had started to rain again by the time we got to the first lock.

Immediately after we started off the towpath rises up to the road while the canal plunges under the Asda Tunnel – so called as there is an Asda superstore plonked on top. A towpath was created through the tunnel but has now been completely blocked off. I wonder why?

Ashton Old Wharf

Beyond the tunnel the canal curves round under the railway viaduct to Ashton Old Wharf with its collection of moored boats and the winding hole. This is actually the end of the Ashton Canal, but as so few boats ventured this way while the Huddersfield Narrow Canal was derelict, the guides have got in the habit of assuming that Dukinfield Junction is the terminus. What it is to be a canal anorak.

We actually moored here back in 2005 when we had cruised from Marple on our way to the IWA Rally at Preston Brook. We couldn’t find a decent mooring at the junction and Pearson’s Guide had a mooring bollard sign here, so we tried it. It was fine!

Immediately beyond the basin is the bottom lock of the Huddersfield Narrow Canal, the first of 72 locks in less than 20 miles. Uniquely the locks are numbered from 1W to 32W on the west side of the summit tunnel and from 42E to 1E on the east side.

Unusual gate & paddle gear at Lock 1W

Lock 1W is unusual as it has a large hydraulic drum which powers the gates – turn the windlass many, many times to open and shut them. There are no balance beams at all due to the skew road bridge which had been extended over the tail of the lock. It also has the two hydraulic paddles side by side and adjacent to the drum mechanism.

There was also a nasty niff assailing our nostrils as we both approached the lock, Elaine on the boat, and me walking through the towpath tunnel under the road as the lockwheeler. It was almost as if someone had emptied their cassette toilet somewhere nearby.

It was now that the rain started, and for a time our coats came on and off, were done up and undone…….. We’re both thoroughly fed up with the constant rainfall.

Mills around Dukinfield

There is a short length before the next two locks as we pass imperceptibly between Dukinfield and Stalybridge. This length, and the length above, is intensely industrial with many old mills lining the canal on both sides.

Some are still obviously being used (although not necessarily for their original textile purpose), some cling onto a somewhat precarious existence, some are clearly derelict with no window glass and damaged walls & roofs while one had been reduced to two huge piles of demolition rubble , so high that trainee mountaineers could hone their skills here. Large diggers with long protruding jointed arms (rather like the limbs of a praying mantis) dipped and raised their heads as they picked away at the rubble.

Tame Aqueduct - note gap between canal & towpath

After Locks 2 & 3W the canal crosses the River Tame on an aqueduct. It is notable for having hardly any safety walls, just a low railing on both sides. However, the towpath, which rises over the river on its own stone aqueduct -a very rare occurrence - provides at least some semblance of security. The river was running quite fiercely which, given all the rain we’ve had recently, was not too much of a surprise.

The canal now curves round, leaving the mills behind, and enters a brand new concrete and stone faced world. The course of the canal through Stalybridge town centre had been totally eradicated and built over and posed one of the major headaches for the restorers.

The initial idea had been to utilise the river for a stretch (never a preferred option), but the bold decision was taken to rebuild as near to the original line as possible, and make the new canal the focal point of the town centre – which it has notably achieved.

Lock 4W, Stalybridge

Lock 5W, Stalybridge

It rises through three rebuilt locks and under a flurry of bridges to enter Armentieres Square where it is indeed the centrepoint of the area. Whilst it is unfortunate that a canalside row of shops have recently been gutted by fire and an adjacent pub badly damaged and closed as a result, the surroundings are quite pleasant with all facilities within easy reach.

Through the arches - a flurry of new bridges at Stalybridge

 

Mooring at Armentieres Square, Stalybridge

Here, we tied up with a view of the hills ahead. Hills that for the most part of the day were shrouded in mist, but as I type this they are in full view with blue skies and a strange yellow thingie in the sky.

The hills await.........

We have done a major store-cupboard shop at the big Tesco opposite, and both of us have also had haircuts – the first since we left High House Wharf at the end of March! In my case, I left more on the hairdresser’s floor than I had left on top!

We shall stay here tomorrow as well. We have plenty of time in hand for the remaining 26 locks and 7 miles to Standedge Tunnel as we are not booked to go through until a week today, the first slot we could get!

Monday July 9th, Thomas Telford Basin, Piccadilly Village - Dukinfield Junction

 We had a long, hard slog out of Manchester today up the Ashton Canal. After a nice, mainly sunny day yesterday, it was perhaps inevitable that today started with quite heavy drizzle for an hour or so.

New development at Piccadilly

The first section of the Ashton has been gentrified, if that’s the right word for all the futuristic developments that have gone on over the last 10 years or so.

Some amazing architecture, mainly by inner-city redevelopment specialists Urban Splash, lines the canal on both sides as it climbs up the three Ancoats Locks.

Razamatazz at Ancoats Bottom Lock

.

Old Lock Cottage, Ancoats flight

In amidst all this C21st razzamatazz, the old lock cottage (nicely restored, but empty) seems a bit lost.

Old lock cottage & new development, cheek by jowl at Ancoats

Entrance to New Islington Marina (Ashton Canal)

Between the second and third locks is the most unusual development – the “Chips” apartment block built as the centrepiece of the New Islington development of which the marina we used on both journeys on the Rochdale is the centrepiece. There is another arm from the Ashton Canal leading into another part of the marina, although as yet, sadly, boat free. There is a road running parallel to the canal and it effectively slices the marina into two parts. As the road runs at water level, it is unlikely they will ever be joined.

The "Chips" building

The “Chips” building (so called as it is said to resemble three fat chips stacked unevenly on top of one another) has to be one of the most remarkable developments we have ever seen. Not content with its shape, the irregular windowed sides bear in huge capitals the names of the various waterways around Manchester. Surreal!

The "Chips" Building

Awaiting rescue. Old factory nest to the "Chips" Building

After the third lock, surroundings degenerate into post-industrial grot – but still of interest to the industrial archaeologist. Indeed, the neighbour of “Chips” is a gently decaying old factory.

Bottom lock of the Beswick Flight, Sports City

After a couple of almost impossibly low bridges (we had to do an emergency stop and replace the chimney with the cloche cover) we arrived at the second flight on the canal; the Beswick (or Ashton as they are called now) Locks. This takes up through Sport City – the site of the 2002 Commonwealth Games. There is a fine legacy with the City of Manchester Stadium (now called the Etihad Stadium), the home of Manchester City, the National Cycling Centre, a large sports arena and the National Squash Centre.

Old lock cottage, Beswick Top Lock

Again, the restored and nicely maintained former lock cottage is dwarfed by large residential developments, attracted no doubt by the investment in the local infrastructure after the Commonwealth Games.

Former Stockport Branch, Clayton Junction

It is only a short distance between the four Beswick Locks and the start of the Clayton Flight – the largest on the canal with 9 locks spread out over the next mile or so. It has to be said this is a fairly nondescript length of industrial buildings (some derelict and some apparently thriving), some residential areas and nothing of real interest apart from the small stub, all that remains of the Clayton Arm, and the entrance to the Stockport Branch which ran for 5 miles from a point roughly half way up the flight.

We had immense problems getting into the top lock of this flight. The lock below leaked badly drawing water off the short pound in between, and having to fill the lock drew another lockfull off.  I couldn’t get the boat even into the bridgehole immediately below the lock, let alone into the lock chamber. Elaine had to open both top paddles, leaving the bottom gates open (shock, horror) and let the water run for a good five minutes before the pound had built up to the extent where I could crawl into the chamber.

Fortunately the pound above Clayton Top Lock is about half a mile long, but even so we had lowered this level as well, but it was still just sufficient to let me crawl along to the next short flight of 2 at Fairfield.

But before the short Fairfield Flight, two swing bridges intervene. At least it used to be two until a tragic accident last year when, at the first of the bridges, I believe some young teenagers were mucking about, managed to undo the locking mechanism and started to swing it backwards and forwards. Unfortunately a 15 year old schoolgirl was sitting on the side with her legs dangling over the bridge end and had her legs crushed. They later had to be amputated. British Waterways recently paid out £500,000 compensation for part responsibility. The bridge is key operated and either a boater left a key in the mechanism, the teenagers had a key, or the mechanism had broken. All in all a tragic incident. The bridge is now chained open.

Old boathouse for packet boat, Fairfield

Just a hundred yards further on is the second, identical bridge with the same operating technique. This one is still in use so BW (or C&RT as they now) must be happy with the operation of these bridges of which there are many, many similar types all over the network.

Approaching Fairfield Top Lock

Fairfield Locks were once duplicated and the second chambers still exist, used as overflow weirs. There is an old boat house between the locks which used to be home to a packet boat and a most graceful bridge at the foot of the top lock.

Beyond the top lock – and the top lock of the 18 locks on the canal – PHEW! – is Fairfield Junction where a branch to Hollinwood led off. Part has been re-watered and is home to a small marina and there are plans to fully restore the branch.

Turning right at the junction, we were now just a mile and half to journey’s end at Dukinfield Junction. The Robertson’s jam factory used to stand beside bridge 18; at least it was still standing 7 years ago when we last came this way. Now though, it is gone.  Heaps of demolition rubble cover the site and are testament to its closure and destruction about four years ago.

I feel as if part of my childhood has gone. Like many kids in the 1950’s and 1960’s I eagerly collected the tokens from the jam and marmalade jars my parents used to buy and send off for the wonderful enamel badges of the infamous golly***. How sad that something as innocent as that was tarnished by the politically correct claptrap that is part and parcel of modern life.

Laurel & Hardie visit the Ashton Canal

Beyond some attractive housing backs onto the canal and we enjoyed looking at the back gardens, some quite posh and some with a sense of humour; witness the small Laurel & Hardie statues that sit on a clump of grass at the end of someone ‘s garden.

Our old friend the M60 crosses on a large viaduct soon after, rather spoiling the upmarket houses. We have seen it so often on our recent wanderings – this must be the sixth time we have suffered its noise and concrete brutality. Thankfully, it should be the last.

The remaining mile takes the canal through the delights of Guide Bridge. With a large railway depot, marshalling yards and junctions dominating the canal on one side, and a collection of tawdry old mills (all apparently in one use or another), it is not a length to be savoured.

But salvation is soon at hand as the large, preserved mill chimney surmounted by a crown appears, heralding the arrival of Dukinfield Junction and journey’s end for today.

We have always had trouble finding somewhere to moor here before and we struggled at first to find somewhere again. Seven years ago we in fact continued along the Ashton Canal (which, incidentally, doesn’t end at Dukinfield Junction) for another half mile or so to its proper terminus at Ashton Old Wharf where we tied up quite safely and we thought we might have to do that today. But just past the junction we espied some mooring rings (although not quite in the right place to use at both ends) and finally tied up after a wearying day.

Mooring at Dukinfield Junction

At least the rain hadn’t reappeared after its early downpour, but it has been muggy and overcast for most of the time. Tomorrow we venture onto new waters again – the Huddersfield Narrow. We shall take it very slowly and enjoy it.

We’ll have to take it slowly as the first available booking to get through Standedge Tunnel is a week on Wednesday and we initially thought we would be there on Friday. So we have eight days to do nine miles and 42 locks.